Blue Ridge Highway

Cycling in the South

Last Day - Waynesville to Cherokee

After dinner last night, we decided to walk down the main street of Waynesville only to get caught in a local rain shower.  After returning to the inn, we all were wondering what we'd face today.  Essentially, it was what we've had all week.  Mist, turning to rain in the morning with fog increasing the higher we climbed. 

We had a gentle climb from the inn back to the Blue Ridge Highway.  Then we climbed about 3,000 feet over about 8 miles.  There was an optional out and back just below the summit.  Not knowing the turnoff and more importantly, not easily enticed by the wet and fog, I descended into Cherokee.  There are five tunnels between the summit and Cherokee, the second to last of which is pretty choppy pavement.   I arrived in a town that has about twenty tourist stores all touting the best authentic Indian handicrafts. 

Just before descending, Pat and I charged up what was the second to last climb.  He stopped to put on his light and I expected him to show up in Cherokee where I thought the others would be waiting as well.  But after arriving and waiting for five minutes, I called Russell in the sag wagon (btw, I'm told that stands for "support and gear" -- never knew that).  Turns out, three of the guys did go out on the option and expected us to join them there for a picnic lunch.  So I changed and packed up my bike and rode back up the highway with Russell, picking up Pat along the way. 

When we arrived, it turned out that Charles had taken a semi-paved road down rather than ride back to the highway (see sign photo).  After passing two flocks of wild turkeys on the drive back up, we had lunch in the wet around the van (see photo as well).  The other folks did the descent I had done early while Russell and I drove down.  Shortly the others showed up except for Charles. 

We began to wonder, worry, fantasize, make good and bad jokes about what could have happened.  After about thirty minutes, we decided to pack up and head to the ranger station just outside Cherokee.  Just before reaching it, we spotted Charles waiting for us on the side of the road. 

As we headed back to Atlanta, we stopped at Dillard's just across the North Carolina/Georgia line.  Charles mentioned this was to round out my Southern cultural experience.  Dillard's is family style eating.  Within 5 minutes of arrival, plate upon plate of Southern cooking arrived until there was no room on the table.  Equally amazing was the speed at which it was consumed. 

Most of the highlights have already been recorded in previous posts.  In summary, we did about 300 miles and 30,000 feet of climbing.  I'm reminded that areas that are really green are that way because it often rains.  I added the picture of the yellow catapillar crossing the highway as he was the only other soul I saw wearing yellow once we started up in the rain.. 

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Day 5 - Asheville to Waynesville

We had every bit of weather today...cloudy to deep fog to sunshine and back to cloudy.  I was so pleased to see the sun I took a photo of my shadow!  Markham provided a blinding glimpse of the obvious for me when I was fed up with the fog.  He rode up and mentioned that's why these hills are called "The Smokey Mountains".  Duh! 

Our ride was mostly up for the first 30 miles.  As the photo's show, today we crossed the highest point on the Blue Ridge Highway.  That's where we had a picnic lunch which was one of our best.  You don't have to worry about finding enough carbs when you bring your own.

The descent from the peak of the highway was special.  You never had to hit the breaks as the curves are all sweepers and the straights are long enough that if you tuck, you could nearly touch 50 mph.  Now there is a wrinkle...

We've had tunnels along the ride.  Usually you can see the end from the beginning.  In any event, our normal practice is to put on our lights.  As we're bombing down, we come to this tunnel, we barely got on our lights but the change of daylight to dark tunnel made it tough to see.  So we went speeding into a big black void that luckily ended pretty quickly. 

After the turnoff to Waynesville, we paced line to our Inn.  Tonight, we lose Rich, Markham and Reb.

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Day 4 - Little Switzerland to Asheville

The day started off with sunny skies, and for me, a doppio espresso at the Book and Bean in Little Switzerland.  Yea!  Jack warned us that the first twenty miles were uphill until the turnoff for Mt. Mitchell.  We then left the Blue Ridge Highway headed up Mt. Mitchell - the highest point east of the Mississippi.  We ate at the restaurant at the top which took a fair amount of time for fair food  We all added a layer for the descent as the clouds were coming in.

After a short climb or two, the rest of the ride was a descent with essentially little need for brakes.  Not technical but it clicked off the miles quickly.  We met up at mile market 388 only to learn that the trailer hitch on the rented sag wagon broke.  Thank goodness the safety chains held.  With good scrambling by Larry and Russell, they found a place to repair while we waited at the night's B&B for our luggage to arrive.

Robert, the innkeeper, was terrific bringing out mixed nuts, dried fruits, mini-shredded wheats and water.  A little bit later Markham (from our Swiss & French Alps trip) arrived with his friend Reb to join us on tomorrow's ride. 

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Day Three - Fog and Mist

During breakfast we pooled our knowledge regarding the weather from TV and several internet sites.  We then massaged it to determine a start time that would optimally find a hole in the rain that ideally would last the entire ride.  A case of too much thinking applied to sketchy data. 

The good news is that we either avoided the worst, or the forecast intensity never occurred.  Instead we had mist and some very deep fog (see picture of overlook sign).  Upon our arrival in Little Switzerland, Charles announced how much he enjoyed the foggy haze on the last ten miles.  A  case of the glass half full (but I haven't seen rain since last April in California).

Our ride was about 45 miles and 5,000 feet of climbing.  As has been the pattern, the climbs and descents are consistent with a shorter period between them relative to Europe or California. Here the road meanders up and down such that you never go up or down for that long whereas at home you're either going up 1/2 to 1.5 hrs. and then zooming down a technical descent. 

With the fog, the views were more compromised than yesterday.  No misty clouds hugging the peaks.  We did have our first of what will be several tunnels just before arriving in Little Switzerland where we're staying.  In contrast to our stay in Blowing Rock which Jack described as a tourist town, he labeled Little Switzerland a hamlet. 

It might be a hamlet but next to the Little Switzerland Café where we had lunch there was an espresso shop.  I had begun to think that the guys talk about "dry county" meant no espresso so this was a welcome addition. 

I've included a picture from the start of our trip and a couple of shops that Russell, Jack's son and our sag wagon driver took of us as well our our route.

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Day Two - Weathering Our Way to Blowing Rock

The weather gods were not kind to us this morning.  We started off in serious rain.  By the time we got to the first available coffee and hot chocolate stop, we were all digging through the van looking for an extra layer. 

Riding in the rain is like riding in a wet suit.  You're not going to stay dry. What you try and do is have enough layers so that your body heat warms up the clothing to insulate you from the cold.  Of course we all wear breathable fabrics and the like.  They just help get the balance right. 

The hard part is that when you stop to add a layer, that layer is dry.  Your mind goes, "I could be dry too." Knowing that you're going to put this dry layer on top of or underneath already wet layers like a soaked jersey is the right thing to do, you just don't want to believe it. 

So after most of us added a layer, we had hot chocolate and coffee and continued onward.  The good news is that the rain slowed down and then stopped.  We had clouds and wisps of clouds over the mountains as we rode.  That was quite pretty.

As the only non-Southerner on this trip, small things stand out.  For example, in the Sierra's we have plenty of signs warning about "Falling" rocks.  Here they have signs for "Fallen" rocks.  It probably makes more sense as I've always wondered in the Sierra's if your supposed to look up and somehow dodge them as they're coming down. 

The other differences is there are no passes out here; just gaps.  We had a terrific downhill coming into Deep Gap which worried me because that implies a steep climb out.  Actually it's rare to get above a 6% grade on this road.  The Blue Ridge Highway is a as it sounds: a ridge road that skirts along the top of the hills as it meanders south.

Tonight we're staying at a more traditional hotel rather than Granny's II.  Nice change and with wifi, this post should be up tonight. 

 

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Day One - Driving

If you're going to ride point to point for 6 days averaging about 60-70 miles, you've got drive about 350 miles in the other direction before you can start.  That sums up today -- driving. 

Jack's done a superb job planning and getting all the logistics set up.  The U-Haul trailer that's behind the phone in the photo has 8 bikes clamped to 2x4's on either side by their front forks.  Around them are wheels, luggage, etc.  We stopped for a quick lunch at a Subway sandwich shop.  After hearing raves from the gals behind the counter about the vege patty, I went for it.  I won't add to the raves but it worked.

We stopped at Ashville Airport to pick up Rich who flew in from Dallas.  After a stop for a "natural break" (biker slang for bathroom break) we cruised into "Grandma's".   Grandma's is a two building B&B.  Each building is separated by about 1.5 miles.   Basically the are a former home and barn turned into a rental unit.  Our  building is absolutely moooovelous  as it's decorated in black and white cow trinkets, pictures and even a novel entitled, The Cow. 

Dinner was in Sparta, North Carolina at the "best restaurant" in town.  The crowded parking lot confirmed it's ranking compared to other places we passed as we drove in.  The portions were more than ample.  They will give us energy but won't attract culinary commendation.  Unlike our trip to the French Alps where the flavors were much grander than the portions, so far, this is the reverse. 

Tomorrow's weather forecast remains ominous.  The good news is that the thunderstorms are not expected to hit until afternoon.  Let's hope that's true. 

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On My Way

Heading out to join some of my Swiss/French Alps biking friends to ride the Blue Ridge Highway from Virginia to Cherokee, North Carolina. 

We'll start in Atlanta and drive somewhere near the Virginia border on Saturday; beginriding on Sunday.  Each day looks like about 60 miles and 6-7k climbing.  Nothing long or steep but constantly up and down.  Some call it death by a thousand cuts. 

When I think of the South, the first word that comes to mind is humidity.  I was delighted when I checked the weather last week to see mostly sunny skies and humidity that topped out at 60%.

That was last week.  Now the weather is a bit more ominous and humid.  Thunderstorms threaten each day and the humidity looks like it's way up there. 

I knew I would be sweating just to keep up because most of these boys are a notch faster than I am.  Now it's clear they'll be sweating too!